Bouldering in Engelberg

      
      -- last change, 29th of Oct 2017, (friedbikins AT gmail.com) (c) 2003 - 2017

         
         Summer 2011: Rene Schweizer and Raphi Bachmann developped 50 new lines 
         in the forgotten sector 'Halfpipe'. It's about 15 min up the hill from 
         sector Fuchsstein and includes 5 blocs. Topo Sector Halfpipe 


         
         Autmn 2016: Hary Roeker did some amazing First Ascends and repetitions.
         Check out Hary's Video Betas Engelberg  
           - Mc Twist (FA Hary) 8b/b+
           - Cows in the Bikinis (2nd ascent after Adam Ondra) 8a+
           - Vivai (FA Hary) 8a+/b
           - Kiana 8a+ 
           - Frauenfeind 8a


         
         Summer 2017: Now you can rent a big triple pad (Peter Bouldering, in great conditions)
         at the restaurant Staefeli, next to the Fuchsstein. 
         Contact Renting Pad Staefeli for availability. Price 10.- SFr per day. 



      Welcome to the boulder guide to the blocs in the valley of Engelberg in Central
      Switzerland. See bottom of the page on how to get there.
      
      It is a small area with about 170 lines on more than 15 blocs. The first Bloc is right
      above the parking. It has some of the best lines of the area. For the other blocs you have to 
      walk 20 - 40 min on easy trails surrounded by glacier and mountain rivers scenery.
      
      The difficulties of the lines are between 4a and 8b and some projects of course. 
      But most of the lines are between 5c and 7a

      Best season is from october till december. Then it gets sticky as hell. Spring is sometimes
      not too bad but maybe you have to dodge some avalanches. Summer is good on overcast days.
      Most problems face the sun. 
      
      At the end you'll find a map with an overview of all the blocs, some thoughts about
      the grading and some links contact info.      
      
      
           
     Discover the area with the beautiful footage from  Kurt Hötzel
     including:
     Over the river 1+ 2 (7A+7B)
     Loserline 7C
     Slayer 6A
     Lieblingslaster Eitelkeit 7C+
     
     Engelberg is at 1:04:55

     Rewind the youtube clip for more 
     bouldering in Central Switzerland
    
     


BRUENDLER

      This bloc is right above the parking. You can spend easy the whole afternoon there.
      The Bloc at Bruendler has the first ever developped boulder in Engelberg. It was in spring
      2003 when I called Simon Wandeler to check out this bloc. We spent 5 hours until we
      figured out the moves to the most obvious line on this bloc. We thought it was going
      to be a 6a and felt like loosers ... Looser Line was born. 

BRUENDLER BLOC 

Character: Limestone, small crimps

Number:    6 Lines
Exposion:  Never Sun

Best:      Kiana        8a+
           Get Down     7c+ 

Walk:   3 min from the car parking

Pics:      U L: Domi action in looser line
           U R: Chris on the swing of kiana 
           D L: Dave ready to fly on kiana


 ************* Bruendler   *****************************************************

 Alpaeroesli        6a+      The obvious arete from left to right. Slopers on
                             limestone to big holds 
 Maenteli           6a       excellent mantle if you don't use the crimps
                             only the slopers
 Montags Maler      7b+      sit start like Maenteli, then 5 middle hard moves 
                             going slightly to the right and up before the jump 
                             to pocket, a bit contrived since the logical line is 
                             Maenteli and then Alpaeroesli.
                             check out video below.
 Looser Line        7c       find out where to place your butt. this is a classic
                             rhythm boulder, once you find it, its not too hard. 
                             FA Simon Wandeler 
 Get Down           7c+      deep start to Looser Line. 3 more moves, but you get
                             better into rhythm.
 Vivai              8a+/b    Sitstart on Get Down then to the right and topout. FA Hary Roeker
                             into crux of Kiana. 
 Kiana              8a+      smaller crimps and longer moves than looser line. 
                             First it seems impossible, then it seems close,
                             then so impossible again :)
                             FA Dave Gisler
 Kiana (Stand)      7b-8a    Kind of ungradable. Very technical and powerful 1 mover. 
                             Tiny holds, to a not really ok hold (for me) ... sometimes
                             it feels impossible and then it feels easy again.
                             FA Dave Gisler 
 Sisters Line       8a        Morpho! Sit Start on Kiana and then go left into
                             Loosers line
                             FA Dave Gisler
 Killer Kante       6b+/c    Sooo friction dependent. There is a long traverse 
                             from way down, too. 
 Low Traverse       Proj     I have no clue how 

     
Beta for the contrived line Montags Maler:
But hey, do it just the way that is most fun!    
 Beta for Looser Line
AGENT ORANGE SECTOR

      We always knew there were blocs in the woods on the other side of the river, but no-one 
      had the courage to go and conquer them. Dave Gisler finally did what had to be done.
      3 fresh blocs with over 10 lines all close together are ready for a great warm up and
      burn out. From the Bruendler parking walk to the Corner block and cross the bridge
      to the right. Then turn right again and go over the next bridge and go down the
      trail to the point where the barbed wire ends (on the right side of the trail) and
      go there into the forest (about 30-40m) and you'll find the Agent Orange block.

      If you a bit further towards the River, you'll find the 'Hoher Zwerg' a big 
      block with no real line but tousands of combinations ... excellent to get
      start the day. 

      And if you walk a bit further down the river, you'll find two excellent lines
      mitake and mifune!

AGENT ORANGE SECTOR 

Character: Gneiss

Number:    10+  Lines
Exposion:  in the forest 

Best:      Agent Orange 7b+

Walk:   10 min from the car parking

Pics:      U L: Tabea checking 'Mooslos' 
           U R: Hoher Zwerg front 
           D L: Mitake and Mifune


 ************* Agent Orange   *****************************************************

 Orange Mantle (a)         6c     Mantle straight up 
 Agent Orange  (b)         7b+    short intensive traverse with a hard crux move
                                  FA Dave Gisler
 DDT     (c)               7a     low start on big hold and straight up
 Mooslos (d)               7a+    same start and go to the right

 ************* Hoher Zwerg     ****************************************************

 a lot of lines around 7a and some hard projects, too. 
 Have fun like a first ascender and create your own lines :)


 ************* Mitake & Mifune     ****************************************************
 Mitake                          7a+      technical on small river washed crimps
 Mifune                          6c+      the arete, excellent climb, too


CORNER BLOC


This was a late discovery. In summer it's a bit dense to get there. It is not far
from the Bruendler Bloc. From the parking you can walk up 500m the path until you see
on your right side a bridge. On the first pic you see the bridge and path in the
background of the corner block. During all summer it's in the bush and too hot. 
November / March it's the best to boulder on it. 
      CORNER BLOC 
    
      Character: Gneiss, Funky Vertical 
      
      Number:    10 Lines
      Exposion:  No sun in the bush
      
      Best:      all 
      
      Pics: 
      U L: block and bridge 
      U R: just 4 the colour 
      D L: when u look south 
     

 ****** Corner Block  *************************************************************
 Alles ist erlaubt         5c 
 With                      6b  If you use the Block of 'alles ist erlaubt'
 or without you            6c  without the block
 Tango                     5c dance left, right, left, right :)
 Umarm mich                5c     hug is the trick
 Schnabel Kraft            6b pinch it hard
 Surprise                  6a surprisingly easy with the beta
 the mess we're in         6b watch the rock, the tree and the lykon. 
 sandflies                 7a find your way with both corners 
 proj                      ?

FUCHS STEIN

The Fuchs Stein is on the other end of the area. It is just the biggest block
you can see from the restaurant Staefeli. 'Ehrlich Lump' is the first line
done on this block. It is a looong line, starting on almost roof climbing and
ending on slopey crimps. Rene and Tabea found an easy end to it (cause they
are smarter), so it's named der gschiid lump. I still prefer my more difficult 
and now obviously contrived way :)
On 'Lieblingslaster Eitelkeit' i needed 4 months to find a beta to it. 
  was several times told that there is no line there, but it
turned out to be one of the most beautiful lines with the funkiest beta. 

 n 2006 David Noden put up Effervescent Elephant which was 8a when he did it. But
when i tried it i cleand the lycon and moss away cause i just could not hold
this stuff. It is somehow easier now ... probably 7b+ or so ... It makes
a huge difference when you brush very very slopey mossy slopers :)
 n 2010 Rene Schweizer brought back the endurance to bouldering and put up a couple
of pumpy lines to fuchsstein. 
 n 2012 Adam Ondra payed a visit to the Fuchsstein and showed me that all moves
are possible on some projects. Now we have it all on one bloc :)

      FUCHS STEIN BOULDER 
    
      Character: Gneiss, slopey and crimpy
      
      Number:    15 climbed Lines, 3 projects
      Exposion:  all expositions
      
      Best:      E. Elephant    7b+ 
                 Eitelkeit      7c+
                 Gschiid Lump   7a+
                 Ride the tide  7c
                 Fox chase      6b+
      
      
      Pics: 
      Up L:   Domi on the ehrlich Lump 
      Up R:   Fred flashing Eitelkeit 
      D  L:   Chris kicks ass in Eitelkeit 
     

 ****** Fuchsstein ****************************************************************************

 Effervescent Elephant           7b+       Start big hold, crimp left and big move to slopers  
                                           FA by David Noden from Wales
 Project     Proj                8b/c      Start on Eitelkeit and end on Effervescent Elephant 
 Eitelkeit geht weiter           7a        Start where Eitelkeit ends. Big move to slopey arete
                                           and bring your feet around that arete
 (1)  Lieblingslaster Eitelkeit  7c/+      Classic! Start lying down underneath the prow. 
                                           the heels are going to heal your soul
 (2a) Cows in the Bikinis        8a+       Start ehrlich lump, go left around the prow into the
                                           last moves of Eitelkeit. 
                                           FA by Adam Ondra 2012 
                                           2nd by Hary Roeker 2016
 (2)  Project                    8b/c      Start ehrlich lump, go left and up 
 (3)  Naked in the Rain          7c+       Start ehrlich lump, go straight up to big hold 
                                           for both hands (High Ball)
      Naked in the Brain         7c+       FA Joe Mohle. Top out after 'Naked in the Rain' (Solo)
 (4a) Der nackte Lump            7a+       start like ehrlich Lump and end on naked in the Rain 
 (4)  Der ehrlich Lump           7b+       Steep 6c to 7a+ slab. So it is more a short
                                           route (~ 14 moves) than a boulder. Since there is
                                           now an easier way to the left (Der gschiid Lump), 
                                           this line has become 'contrived'. But hey, it is
                                           still the nicer line :)
 (4b) Der gschiid Lump           7a+       FA Stefan Lustenberger. Same as ehrlich Lump, but 
                                           avoid the crux move on the bad slopers and take a 
 (4c) Ride the Tide              7c        FA by Rene Schweizer. Start on ehrlich Lump and
                                           start to traverse when you reach the sloper. The
                                           whole thing ends up on the highball 'easy ticks'
                                           40 moves! It is the only line that has a sit start
                                           sharp crimp up left (Rene and Tabeas way)
 (5)  Zwischen Lump und Held      Proj      Yet another playground ... 
 (6)  Der falsch Held             7b+       Crimpy shit, same finish as 'ehrlich lump'
 (7)  Chipp n Tales               7b        Another crimpy shit with a nice mantle to finish
 (8)  Easy Ticks                  6c        FA by Sebi Huber, super nice Highball and the 
                                            first line that tops out the fuchsstein :)
 (8a) Easy Ticks for easy chicks  7b        FA by Harald Roeker, Sit start to easy ticks
 (9)  Foxy Lady                   7a        work up you way through the slopey groove. another
                                            topout on the fuchsstein
 (10) Lucky Looser                6a        right of the easiest way to the top of the fuchsstein
                                            excellent dyno!!!
 (11) Fox chase                   6b+       trav from Soultaker to the left to the beginning of
                                            lucky looser
 (12) Soulmate                    7a+       Shouldery first move on right crimp, then campus board
                                            fest!
 (13) Seelenwaermer               7a+       Soultaker but no eliminates, follow the big holds to
                                            the end of Soultaker. Last move with the right hand to the upper
                                            right hold is the crux.
 (14) Soultaker                   Proj      8a/b Hard first move to big hold and then keep low.        
                                            Before the hold broke it was a 7c by Rene Schweizer Now
                                            way harder ...
 (15) Soultaker Stand             7b+       Start with 2 crimps. Your right deltoid muscle will be
                                            very sore the next day :). Finish with right hand on upper
                                            right jug that is marked with a little man. left hand on the left
                                            little dude on the big sloper.
 (16) Soulmaker                   7a        Just the hard first move of Soultaker and then top out
                                            as soon as you can. Variation: start both hands on the
                                            right hold (7a+)
 (17)  Project                    8c/9a     on the steep roof right of Soultaker ... a line for
                                            the next generations
Domi after the first move of Ehrlich Lump, supervised by my cousin Vanessa
The beloved Fuchstein
The awesome traverse fox chase, from 10 am it's in the shade

  
Sector Soultaker, in the shade till 5 pm. Sometimes with a fresh cold
wind on hot summer days.


KOTLET

The Kotlet has its name cause it looks like a piece of meat.
it is just above the Fuchsstein and has two excellent lines.
Kotlet itself is a deluxe slab 6a and Big Steak is a wonderful
Arete. 
      KOTLET BOULDER 
    
      Character: Gneiss, Arete n Slab
      
      Number:    5 Lines
      Exposion:  mostly afternoon sun
      
      Best:      Kotlet     6a 
                 Big Steak  6c 
      
      
      Pics: 
      Up L:   Domi styling Steak 
      Up R:   Barti desperate on Kotlet   
      Down L: Jude jugging on big Steak
     

 ****** Kotelette ******************************************************************

 Chicken Curry   6c      Go as low as your table manners ;) 
 Big Steak       6c      Climb the whole arete and mantle 
                         when you get the perfect hold
 Steak           6c      mantle in the middle of the arete
 Kotlet          6a      classic slab, easier top over crimps to the left 
 Kotlet sitstart 6b      if you like meat 
 Bratwurst       6b-c    Somehow weird, but in the end you get the sausage 
 Zwoei a         5       Not as easy as you think 




MOLOTOV

Molotov is just right in front of the Fuchststein. As you can see
you can spend all day between this three blocs.
This Block is like the Band Molotov. Full of fun, it has some funky
lines. Then some serious social critics and a lot of punk rock
as well. Read between the lines, read between the holds. The truth
lies there ... in between i mean ... oh well, just enjoy yourself.
      MOLOTOV 
    
      Character: Gneiss, Slabs, funks 
      
      Number:    12 Lines
      Exposion:  mostly in the sun all day 
      
      Best:      Puto 6c 
                 El Salto 7a-c
      
      Pics: 
      U L:  Domi, mista style in Puto 
      U R:  Barti on molotov traverse 
      D L:  Dave on getting the kick 
            of el salto
     

 ****** Molotov ************************************************************

 0-T              7a+   same start as puto, try to mantle 
                        over the left side of the arete.
 Puto             6c    complicated foot hook at start, 
                        then swing :) 
 El Salto         7b    2 moves to jump. funky .. if there 
                        was a sitstart  
 Molotov          6c    That is the traverse. Many many many 
                        variations end wherever
 El Poder         5c      
 Dame             6a  
 Latino           6b  
 Piolin           5a  
 Secreto          4c  
 Sin Calzetin     4   
 Boca de Vaca     5b+ 
 Frijolero        7a+   one mover ... try it when you are bored 




AMEISI

A Ameisi is an ant. This is kind of the the highball bloc. It has a superb slab on
one side and some crazy crazy highballs on the other. Matthias Trottman and Dave
Gisler had the balls to do the first ascent of this cool arete. They were to humble
to give it a grade and a name. But this line is a majesty, so it is called Queen
of the Ants. And there are 3 new High balls on it of the same quality.
There are still the hardest high balls to do ... grab a box of balls next time
you come here. You will need them
  AMEISI 
  
    Character: High Balls, 
    
    Number:    12 Lines
    Exposion:  all 
    
    Best:    Antz      6a
             Bine Maya 7a
             Queen     7b 
    
    Pics: 
      U L: humble the nose 
    * U R: Bine Maya  
    * D L: Annina Atomica
      D R: Antz 


    * pics by tabea schwab  

 ****** Ameisi **************************************************************
 Queen of Ants        7b      HIGH BALL FA by Dave Gisler, Matthias Trottman,
                              So high so high
 Bine Maya            7a      HIGH BALL FA by Sebi Huber and Tabea Schwab
                              fucking scary
 Sch                  6-7?    FA by Dave, Matti n 
                              Stuart Partridge (stuey 8some)
 8some                7a/b    dyno from small crimp to 
                              thumb undercling
 Nosesome             7a+     Start on 8some and left up the antz nose.
                                                    Big moves on big holds and 3 heelhooks
 Antz Nose            7a      sit start under the prow. 
                              patch your way up 
 Pipicacahuets        6b+/7a  Start like Antz. do it static or
                              the 2 hand dyno, which looks 
                              better :) 
 Antz                 6a      First line on this bloc
 Fugazi               6b+     weird sitstart, stand is better 
 Hormigaz             6b+     even more weird
 Fourmiz              5b  
 formica bombastica   6c      Morpho HIGH BALL FA by Sebi Huber
 formica atomica      6a      HIGH BALL
 antz trail           6c      FA by Rene, trav from formica atomica
                              and join topout of Antz nose



PIXIES

Walk a bit down from the Ameisi block and you will bump into the Pixies.
The Pixies are one of my favorite Bands, so they deserve a whole Block.
This Block looks tiny when you get to it. But once you are on it, you see 
the deepness of the lines. Just like the band, the beauty lies in the 
secret of knowing how to see the beauty. Once you know how to look at 
it a whole new world is ready to be climbed.  
      PIXIES 
    
      Character: Gneiss, funky 
      
      Number:    10 Lines
      Exposion:  mostly sun 
      
      Best:      Rock Music 6b+
                 Canonball  7a+  
     
      Pics:  
      U L: On the start of Canonball 
      U R: Ungravel the tops 
      D L: Domi on the end of Canonball 
     



 ****** Pixies *****************************************************
 Hang Wire  (1)         6a     Also fun to start on Havalina and climb into Hang Wire
 Havalina   (2)         5c     Lots of fun possibilities to climb this one
 Canonball  (3)         7a+    FA Dominik Seitz, so long, endurance test piece and
                               small crimps test piece
 Rock Music (4)         6b+    Rock Music and Bossa Nova start the same like Canonball.
                               Rock Music goes to a crimp underneath the top rail to top
                               out to the right. A bit reachy. 
 Bossa Nova (5)         6b     Bossa Nova starts like Rock Music but goes quick then to 
                               the left to a big hold and tops out from there
 Is she weird           7a     2016 - Sit start not possible, full of gravel
 Los Angelis            6b+    2016 - Sit start not possible, full of gravel
 Where is my mind       7c/+   2016 - Sit start not possible, full of gravel 
                               FA by Dave Gisler
                               haaard man, just hard
                               Low start underneath the bloc
                               (arrow at the height of your face)
 Planet of Sounds       7b     2016 - Sit start not possible, full of gravel 
                               Low start underneath the bloc
                               (arrow at the height of your face)
                               better on cold days
 Hey                    6c  


NILPFERD

The Nilpferd bloc lies close to the river underneath the staefeli restaurant.
The whole summer of 2003 i did not go to explore that boulder until Dave Gisler
and Matthias Trottmann came to find out a way up this magic line. It is pretty
much slapping up your way on the back of a hypopotamous. Don't ask me why i
know this 
      NILPFERD 
    
      Character: Gneiss, Steep and Prow 
      
      Number:    2 Lines
      Exposion:  late afternoon sun
      
      Best:      Nilpferd   7c 
      
      Pics: 
      Up L:   Matt chilling in Nilpferd 
      Up R:   Matt slapping the bitch
      D  L:   Dave walking on Nilpferd 
     
 ****** Nilpferd **********************
 Nilpferd           7c/+      What a wonderful climb! FA by Dave Gisler 
                              (he thinks it's 7b+, try it out) 
 Nil rechts         proj 
 Nil quer rechts    proj 


FRAUENBLOCK

This one is just opposite of Nilpferd on the same side of the river 
as the restaurant Staefeli.
The Frauenblock has its name from one of the first Schaffhauser
Sessions. The first line was put up by the brave bunch of girls that
day. Yes, you are right. GIRLS! They are everywhere ... and ... they
are wild. WILD. if you don't believe it, come and see. They will kick
your ass, cause they are real bad ass hard core climber girls. 

      FRAUENBLOCK 
    
      Character: Gneiss, really small crimps 
      
      Number:    2 Lines
      Exposion:  early morning sun 
      
      Best:   Frauenfeind 8a
              Girlfight   6b 
      
      Pics: 
      U L: Annina doing the Girlfight * 
      U R: Dave on Frauenfeind Movie + 
      D L: Chris checking the crux on Frauenfluesterer
     
* pic by Sebi Huber
+ download video by Sebi Huber
        ****** Frauenblock ************************************************************

        Girlfight                        5c/6a      
        Frauenfight                      6b        Standstart to the arete. 
        Frauenfluesterer                 Proj      Sitstart like Frauenfeind but go to the
                                                   right towards that big hold on the arete 
                                                   Standstart: (dyno to the big hold) 7b  
        Frauenfeind                      8a        The floodings provided a real sitstart 
                                                   FA by Dave Gisler 
        Frauenfreund                     Proj 
        Frauenversteher                  MegaProj   
        Frauenschwarm                    6b  
        Der mutige Charmeur              5c  
        Elektra                          ?
        Wonder Women

        ****** Rutschbahn **********************
        degres glissants       5?  FA by Brice
                                   (On the limestone slap further up)





HAARNADEL

Close to the river and on a sharp turn on the steep part
just underneath the restaurant Staefeli you will
find an arete with a funny mantle and a high ball.
Dave Gisler and Sebi Huber have been working on
the highball 
      HAARNADEL 
    
      Character: Gneiss, High 
      
      Number:    3 Lines
      Exposion:  early morning sun 
      
      Best:      highball project   
      
      Pic: Sebi and Dave working in Neuland 
     
 ****** Haarnadel **********************************************
 Kante                  Proj 
 Mantel of Arete        7a+    Standstart to the Arete  
 Highball               Proj   Lots of Pads should do 

      

  

BANDS BLOC

When you come from the restaurant Alpenroesli there will be a very
steep bit. Just before that 40m to the right you will find the
biig black massive bloc. 
This bloc has history. It had the largest number on problems, but the
floodings in august 2005 ripped off 2m soil from the riverside of the
bloc. 11 problems have become High high balls. And i mean high and i
mean balls. Cause that is what you need now to climb these lines.
So far we climbed only 3 of the old lines and they became fair a bit
harder. 
The problem is that the river and the big rocks make the landing really
hard to protect which result into more static climbing which makes it
harder to climb 

      BANDS BLOC 
    
      Character: Gneiss, crimpy shit and 
                 slopey highballs 
      
      Number:    12 Lines and some projects
      Exposion:  mostly afternoon sun
      
      Best:      Notwist 7a
                 Smash Mouth 8a 
      
      Pics: 
      U L: Domi on the funky mantle of 
           notwist 
      U R: Chris T rising into smashmouth  
      D L: Dave crimping the uncrimpable 
           on smashmouth 
     

 ****** Bands Block ***********************************************************************

 Fettes Brot            3b     how cool ist that one :) 
 The Doors              6a  
 Slayer(highball)       6a     FA Martin and Marc. jump to big holds.
                               underneath is the project wall with futuristic
                               lines.
 Notwist                7a     classic, crimps to mantle. FA Dominik Seitz 
 Radiohead (stand)      7a+ 
 Radiohead              7b+    don't do it on the sun, cause it will peel
                               your skin off
 Tricky                 7c+    one move wonder. lot's of coordination. 
                               crimpy and painful. Not sexy at all 
 Tricky Sitstart        Proj   crimpier and more painful 8b? 
 Nomis                  7b     route grade, cause endurance. FA
                               Simon Wandeler 
 Moloko                 6c/7a  The first problem on the bands block, now first
                               hard move from sloper undercling L and crimp R 
 Morcheeba              7a/b   start on sharp small side crimp L and pinch R
                               Pull up to place a left hook. Grab left crimp 
                               and cut loose to place right hook ... and then 
                               what? :) 
 Smash Mouth            8a     High ball to desperate mantle. Bring lots of
                               pads and even more good friends. Will never be 
                               repeated i guess
 Sitstart Smash         8c?    oh man ... i want to see who can climb that ...
 Riders on the Storm    7a     On the complete right. Jumpstart if you are 
                               short. Get a ride on the capricorn. Standing up 
                               from it is the crux. 
                               FA by Matthias Trottman and Lukas Boller

FUSSBALL

This bloc is between Bands and Downunder on the right side
of the road when you walk upwards.
If you ever wanted to test the technique of your feet then
this is your bloc. All the boulders on the slab side should
be possible without using the hands. Unless you do maradona
then you are alowed to use the hand of god.
        FUSSBALL 
    
        Character: Gneiss, Slab 
        
        Number:    8 Lines
        Exposion:  late afternoon sun

 Pic: I have no pic of this bloc.
      So i let Matt and Jude 
      entertain you.
     

 ****** Fussball **********************
 beckham            6c  
 Ronaldo            6b/c  
 Platini            5  
 Maradona           5   
 Pele               5   
 Ronaldinho         5   
 Flanke             4  
 No Hands           No Hands! 


DOWNUNDER

When you walk 5min from the restaurant Alpenroesli towards Staefeli you will see that
bloc 30m on the left side of the road.
In autumn 2003 things were set for a trip around the world. The destinations were 
New Zealand and Australia. So we had a theme for this block. It is a good bloc
to get you body into operational conditions before you go to the bands bloc.
But it is a great bloc in itself.  
      DOWNUNDER 
    
      Character: Gneiss, Arete 
      
      Number:    11 Lines
      Exposion:  late afternoon to never sun 
      
      Best:      New Zealand 6c 
      
      Pics: 
      U L:       A chilled 2005 november day on New Zealand 
      U R:       2017 - a block fell onto New Zealand     
      D L:       2017 - From the top
     

 ****** DownUnder ****************************************************
 All Blacks          6c  
 Australia           6c  
 Dingo               6a  
 Jimothy             6c   Low Traverse from Newzealand
                          to Australia :)
                          (2016 - Not possible because of new bloc in front)
 New Zealand         6c   The obvious arete from right
                          to left
                          (2016 - Not possible because of new bloc in front)
 Tasmania            5a  
 -4 Grad C           5b  
 Fiji                5c  
 Kiwi                5c  
 Koala               5b  
 Forsters            4   
 XXXX                3   

 ****** Treibholz **********************
 Treibholz           6b+  FA by Martin and Marc 
 Rundholz            5b   FA by Martin and Marc
 Kielholen           5a   FA by Martin and Marc




DAECHLI

As of 2017 possible again :) 
(from 2010 - 2017 the sitstarts were burried under 1m50 of gravel) 

Just opposite of Downunder on the other side of the river.
The Floodings just missed this small roof. The roof gives you the possibility
to so funky moves. I feel always so uncoordinated here.
      DAECHLI 
    
      Character: Gneiss, Small Roof 
      
      Number:    7 Lines
      Exposion:  morning sun 
      
      Best:     plantage left     6a
                sabotage straight 7a
                full sabotage     7b 
      
      Pics: 
      U L: Daechli 2003 
      U R: Daechli 2017
     




 ****** Daechli **********************
 Daechli mantle (1)        6a   The descent is a very cool mantle as well
 Plantage left  (2)        6a   Right hand slopey hold on the edge of the roof, left hand
                                on a crimp. Put left heel or foot on to grab a nice fat crimp
                                with left. Then turn your right hand to a mantle position and
                                go leftwards up. 
 Plantage straight (3)     6b+  Same start but go straight upwards without the nice escape to
                                to the left
 Full sabotage     (4)     7b   Start like plantage and climb into sabotage right
 Sabotage straight (5)     7a   Left hand on slopey hold (same as for plantage), right hand 
                                on undercling underneath the roof. One big move with right hand 
                                to the right, left heelhook on starthold and move along the big
                                edges straight up.
 Sabotage right (6)        7a   Same start, but after the first big move keep going right along
                                the edge of the roof and mantle on the other face with the big
                                holds
 Trickage (7)              6c+  Start hands wide apart on two good edges. Feed on the slab. Crouched
                                or sit start depending on gravel level and pads. Balancy barndoor
                                moves to the big holds and exit like Sabotage right. 
 Cavage   (8)              7a+  FA Martin Meier and Marc from 2strong.ch, same start, but further in the cave. 
 X-A      (9)              6b+  Start on a nice pinch left hand and positive good crimp right hand.
 XY      (10)              6b   Same as X-A but climb more in a diagonal leftwards way
 XX      (11)              6a   Same start as X-A and straight up on nice edges. Mantle is the surprise
 Round n round     (12)    6a+  Looks easy, but all holds are slopey, very cool climb
 For the record    (13)    6a   Another line on this side :)
 Heelhook paradise (14)    6b   Standstart is amazing throwing left and right heelhooks. 
                                Sitstart is a bit powerful (6c), depending on gravel level
 Titlis in your back (15)  6a   Nice standstart. Powerful sitstart (6b+)
 Climbing on roofies (16)  7a   little crimps testpiece. Powerful sitstart (7b), may vary on gravel level
 Plantage 360              7b   FA Rene Schweizer. All around the block
                                starting on Plantage






 This bloc is just above the daechli. The lines are facing east.

 ****** Just 1 ***************************
 Just 1            6b  
 Just 4            5c  




HOW TO GET THERE

      Find somebody who tells you how to get to Engelberg. (Hint: 36 km south
      of Lucerne)
      Once in Engelberg find another one who tells you where the Fuerenbahn
      is. That is a cablecar in the end of the valley.
      You ll have to pay 5 SFr. to go up to the parking 2 km further and
      up the hill. From the parking you are not far from the first block.
      the first one is the Bruendler. See the minimalistic maps
      below. Hope they are of use to you. If not, you might get lost in
      the beauty of this valley full of alpine flowers, glaciers, rivers
      and gorgeous cows and marmots :) 

      PUBLIC TRANSPORT: Train to Engelberg from Lucerne. Depending on
      the season there is a free bus to the Fuerenbahn. From there its
      a 20min walk to the parking. Or use a taxi. Or if you like to
      get worked out first, take a bike onto the train. That is my
      favorite way to go bouldering in Engelberg.

SLEEP & FOOD

You can sleep in the middle of the boulder area from 23.- SFr a night. Check www.staefeli.ch for more information. They have their own cheese, too. So be gentle to the goats around the blocs :)

Overview

Parking Teil

Staefeli-teil

How to use this topo ...


      You will find little white arrows on the boulders and the names
      of the lines. The arrow is more or less on the hight of the head.
      So you can find out if it is a sit or a standstart.
      But of course it is not always like that. Just do it the way you
      like the most. You might find much better lines in between the
      arrows. 
      
      

Grades ...

      As everybody knows: Grades don't really exist. They are just 
      a subjective opinion of how hard a line is.
      I graded all the lines cause i know everyone loves to try lines
      that are graded :) It is just a game.

      So keep in mind, this topo is just my personal list of how
      difficult the lines feel to me when i compare them one to another.
      And ... surprise, that changes every year. So visit this page
      from time to time to see how my perception of the lines changed. 
      
      So don't worry when you climb a line that says 7a and you feel
      it's 6c or 7b. Some lines or our perception about them have sometimes
      a bigger sigma in their gaussian distribution than others. Don't you agree?
      

   

more pics and topo info of engelberg climb2surf.com - when barti is not in engelberg visit the facebook group to upload pics and read comments about this crag